Grading the Georgian Polonaise Dress

In this guide, we’ll look at how to grade between sizes on the Georgian Polonaise Dress pattern. This pattern is included in the Time Capsule Wardrobe book and is also available as a standalone PDF pattern. If your bust and waist measurements fall on different sizes of the size chart, I recommend grading the pattern to create a custom size for your measurements.

The diagrams in this guide use the fully graded version of the pattern (available as PDF or paper versions) rather than the gridded pattern from the Time Capsule Wardrobe book, but same same concepts apply if you’re working with the the gridded book pattern. The techniques chapter of the book includes some additional tips for grading the gridded patterns on page 11.

The size chart for the pattern is included below, this corresponds to the actual body dimensions that the pattern has been designed for. Choose your bust and waist size based on this chart, then grade the pattern as necessary using these instructions. The Finished Garment Measurements chart below can also be used to check how the garment will fit you, this includes ease and extra fullness for pleats (for example in the skirt). The bodice on this pattern has negative ease – it is smaller than the bust/waist in order to provide bust support.

For the example in this guide, I’ll be grading between size E for the bust and size G for the waist.

 

Bodice Back

For the bodice back, start by tracing the top portion of the pattern (neckline, shoulder, armhole) in your bust size. In this case, I've traced them on size E (shown below).

Along the waist edge, mark the bottom of the pattern at your waist size (where the curved seam starts). In this case, I've marked the waist based on size G.

Along the right side of the pattern piece, connect the underarm curve to the waist with a smooth curve, following the shape of the original pattern.

Do not adjust the centre back edge. Trace the centre back edge and boning channel as they appear on the original pattern.

 

Bodice Side Back

For the bodice side back, start by tracing the underarm curve in your bust size.

Along the waist edge, mark the bottom of the pattern at your waist size (where the curved seam starts). In this case, I've marked the waist based on size G.

Along the left side of the pattern piece, connect your underarm and waist lines with a smooth curve, following the shape of the original pattern.

Do not adjust the right side of the pattern piece. Trace the right edge (the side seam) and boning channel as they appear on the original pattern.

Transfer the circular notch from your waist size to your new pattern.

 

Bodice Front

The bodice front pattern is split into 2 size groups to minimize overlapping lines and make it easier to see what’s going on. Size G is included in both groups, and is exactly the same shape in both. Once again, I’ll be using size E at the bust and size G at the waist, so in this example I’ll use the smaller pattern group.

Start by tracing the neckline, shoulder, and armhole in your bust size.

Next, trace the waist of the pattern in your waist size.

Along the left side of the pattern, connect the armhole curve to the new waistline with a straight line.

Do not adjust the centre front edge or eyelets. Along the right side of the pattern, trace the centre front edge, boning channels, and eyelets as they appear on the original pattern.

Transfer the diagonal boning channel markings from your bust size.

 

Skirt

For the skirt, use the pattern pieces that correspond to your waist size.

Before you begin sewing

I highly recommend making a mockup of the bodice before you begin working on your final project, particularly if you have graded or adjusted the pattern in any way. This mockup should be made from a sturdy fabric (such as canvas) and should include all boning – without these support layers, it's impossible to accurately assess the fit of the mockup.

It is not, however, necessary to include all finishing techniques. Seams can be left unfinished and edges (such as the neckline, armhole, and waist) can either be left unfinished or turned under.

The pattern is also designed to allow for a small amount of adjustment during the sewing process. After the bodice is assembled, you'll have a chance to fine-tune the fit of the shoulders and side seams before adding the binding.