Making Samples

The most important sewing habit you can learn is to make samples. Every fabric behaves a little differently, and the seam finish you used on your last project might not be a good match for the next one. Making samples is the best way to see how different techniques and finishes work with different fabrics, as well as ensuring your machine tension and stitch length are set up correctly.

Sewing samples is also a great, low-pressure way to try new techniques for the first time. Over time, you’ll build up a collection of samples that you can refer back to, reminding you how different techniques worked and helping you make great decisions on future projects.

The samples you create should reflect the final garment: a pocket sample should be the same size as the final pockets, a buttonhole sample should be sewn through the same number of fabric layers, and so on. In the example below, we’ll look in detail at creating a shirring sample for the Romantic Wrap Dress, so we’ll use the shirring on this pattern as a reference.

Shirring Sample

1. Start by cutting out a scrap of your chosen fabric and marking the outline of the shirring sample in pen (this outline should be marked permanently, since we’ll need to measure it later). For this sample we recommend 10 x 30cm, with a little extra seam allowance around the edges. A sample that’s too big is more useful than a sample that’s too small.

2. Mark the placement of the shirring lines. The Romantic Wrap Dress uses alternating rows that are 0.5 and 2cm apart. We suggest marking these using the temporary marking method that you plan to use for the final garment, to ensure it can be removed easily from your chosen fabric.

3. Sew along the shirring lines with elastic thread in the bobbin and all-purpose thread in the needle.

4. Measure the width of the finished sample. For the Romantic Wrap Dress, the shirring should reduce the width of the fabric by half, so the width of the pen outline should now be 15cm. If your sample is a different width, adjust your settings and try again.

To sew tighter shirring: Lightly steam the finished shirring, use a bigger stitch length, use a higher tension, or wrap the elastic bobbin thread tighter.

To sew looser shirring: Use a smaller stitch length, use a lower tension, or wrap the elastic bobbin thread looser.

These instructions were originally published in the Time Capsule Wardrobe book.