In this guide, we’ll look at how to lengthen or shorten the Edwardian Walking Skirt pattern. This pattern is included in the Time Capsule Wardrobe book and is also available as a standalone PDF pattern. You might choose to change the length of this skirt based on your height, or to make a stylistic change – such as shortening the skirt for a different look, as shown in the example below. The green skirt has been shortened to 75cm.

These instructions can be used to adjust any version of the pattern: the PDF pattern, printed pattern, or gridded book pattern.

The patterns in the Time Capsule Wardrobe collection have been designed for a height of 5’6” (168cm). If you are much taller or shorter than this, you might want to adjust the length of the Edwardian Walking Skirt pattern to better fit your body. The skirt lengths for each size are given in the chart below; you can use these to determine how the pattern will fit you and to decide whether you’d like to make any adjustments.

You should always lengthen or shorten by the same amount across all affected pattern pieces (in this case all 4 skirt panels).

For reference, model Ginger Galore (shown below left) is 5'7" (170cm) and Anna Emilia (shown below right) is 5'6" (168cm). The length of the skirts in the photo below are unchanged from the original pattern.

 

 

Preparing the Pattern

We’ll be adjusting the length of the skirt by making a horizontal cut in the pattern, then spreading or overlapping the pieces as needed. This will allow us to use the existing curve at the hem of the skirt, instead of needing to redraw the hem on every pattern piece. 

Before you can start adjusting your pattern, you’ll need to create lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern pieces. Choose one of the skirt panels to start with, and fold it in half lengthwise, matching up the corners of the hem and the straight side edges.

 

Mark your lengthen/shorten line perpendicular to the fold, about two thirds of the way down the pattern. On the skirt back and side back pattern pieces, mark your line below the double notch on the seam. This will ensure to notch placement stays consistent across all pattern pieces.

You should ignore the grainline while you’re adding your lengthen/shorten line – we want to adjust the length evenly across the pattern piece.

Repeat the same process for the remaining 3 skirt pattern pieces.

 

Shortening the Skirt

Cut your pattern piece along the lengthen/shorten line.

 

Decide how much you want to shorten the skirt, then overlap the top portion and bottom portion of the pattern by this amount. For example, if you want to shorten the hem by 15cm, then overlap the halves by 15cm. Overlap the halves evenly, so that the cut edges are parallel to each other and the folded line in the centre of the pieces matches up.

Tape the pieces together.

 

Redraw the sides of the pattern following the shape of the top half of the pattern. Trim off the excess on the sides of the lower portion.

 

 

Lengthening the Skirt

Cut your pattern piece along the lengthen/shorten line.

 

Decide how much you want to lengthen the skirt, then spread apart the top portion and bottom portion of the pattern by this amount. For example, if you want to lengthen the hem by 5cm, then spread the halves apart by 5cm. Spread the halves evenly, so that the cut edges are parallel to each other and the folded line in the centre of the pieces matches up.

Add an extra piece of paper underneath the gap and along the sides of the lower portion. Tape the pieces together.

 

Redraw the sides of the pattern following the shape of the top half of the pattern, this will extend beyond the existing edges on the lower portion of the pattern. The new edges of the hem should follow the existing curve. Trim off any excess paper.

 

 

Remember to lengthen or shorten by the same amount across all 4 skirt panels! Once you've finished adjusting your pattern, you can sew your skirt as usual.